Air Purification Products
Honeywell® Thermostats
Humidifiers
Unit Heaters
HVACR TOOLS
Accessories
James A/C Co.
serving Do-It-Yourselfers since 1990.
Satisfying every customer....one at a time!
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Call toll free 1-866-584-0355 or 1-903-759-2160 fax 903-759-4605
309 Patriot Circle, Longview, TX 75604-2240
THINGS TO CHECK IF THE COMPRESSOR AND OUTDOOR FAN WILL NOT RUN:
- Power supply. Check the fuses if there is no voltage to the CONTACTOR.
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Check the voltage to assure it is correct on all legs of the incoming lines. If you have three phase current, you may have one line not working. Look at the incoming wires. Some manufacturers will not run both or all of the three power wires to the contactor. One may go directly to a wire nut connection or to a terminal strip. Check for that possibility. If the voltage is getting to the CONTACTOR and then while it is energized, check to see that it is on both sides of the contactor.
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It is very common for ants and spiders to get lodged under the contacts and obstruct the flow of current through their carcass.
- The high voltage wiring. Look for burned wires on the CONTACTOR as well as in the DISCONNECTING DEVICE
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that may be on the wall near the condensing unit or in the MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER PANEL. Look behind the CIRCUIT BREAKER, if it has one, to see that the terminals are not burned off. Use extreme caution when pulling out a breaker from the panel and when putting it back. There is lethal voltage potential ALL THE TIME in that box. Turn off the breaker first, then carefully remove it for inspection. If the posts on the back are discolored or if the hot contact bars are pitted, then an electrician is needed. Some disconnects are mere handles that pull or a plug-in device that pulls out. Examine these.
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- Control transformer. The voltage
supplying power to energize the COIL of the CONTACTOR (usually 24 volts in residential and small commercial applications)
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may not exist or it may be interrupted somewhere between the INDOOR unit and the contactor. Make sure the transformer is supplying voltage to the CONTROLS and the controls are sending voltage on to the outside unit. If the control voltage goes through PRESSURE SWITCHES or OVERLOADS within the outside unit on its way to the contactor, then check to see that it is getting past them.
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- Contactor Coil. If there is voltage to the coil then make sure the movement of the device is not obstructed. If it moves freely, then the coil of the contactor is likely burned out.
- Low Voltage fuse. Many low voltage circuits have fuses that may have burned. Always replace it with identical size and try to locate a fault in the circuit that caused the problem. Some of the typical causes my be shorted contactor coils, shorted control wires, grounded wires and/or low voltage wires shorted to high voltage wires, obstruction of the movement of the contactor contact points or slide mechanism.
- Low voltage wiring. Dogs, hedge trimmers and weed trimmers are sometimes the cause of the low voltage control wires being broken between the outside walls and the condensing units. Occasionally, gardening or utility repairs will cut the wires in the ground.
- Rodents, etc. will sometimes gnaw at the wire and insulation as it enters the slab or building structure and also as it enters the floor of homes on the way to the indoor unit. If these rodents, etc. have made their way into the house, then suspect cut or broken wires at any place where they may have traveled. They seem to like rubber and plastic products.
| Precautionary Hint |
| If, in your search for bare control wires, you see two wires bare and close together, then STOP. Turn off the thermostat and then unplug the heating unit (where the transformer gets its power) to eliminate the control voltage on the two wires. If you were to continue without doing so, and you move these wires and they touch, you will burn out the control transformer. So, turn of the unit and unplug it AND THEN REPAIR THE BARE WIRES.
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