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THINGS TO CHECK IF THE CONDENSER FAN WILL NOT RUN:

MOST LIKELY CAUSES:

  • High voltage wiring. Check the wires from the fan motor back to the CONTACTOR and make sure they are not broken or burned. Check the tightness of the connections to the contactor. Measure the voltage to the fan motor.
  • Run capacitor.
    capicator jpg Look for the small run capacitor for the motor (or it may be like this picture and housed in the same body with the compressor run capacitor). Examine it for bulging or bad wiring terminals or wires. Make sure no fluids have escaped or there are no ruptures. If you cannot check its capacitance and you suspect it has a problem, take it to a service shop or supplier and let them test it.
  • Very hot motor. Most motors have internal overheating protection and will trip out and then as it is cooled will re-set itself. Cool the motor, oil it very well and check visually for burned windings by peering into any openings in the body.

    Test the movement of the shaft for tightness or dragging and for any perpendicular movement of the shaft relative to the body of the motor in an effort to detect any sloppiness in the bearings. You should feel no movement of the shaft crossways of the motor and bearings. There will always be some movement in the length direction of the shaft. If you can notice a definite "clunk-clunk" as you move the shaft, then the bearings (bushings) are very bad and the motor will have to be re-built or replaced. Don't worry about an exact replacement. Concentrate on horse power, voltage, direction of travel, shaft size and physical size (you may have to cut some of the shaft length off of the new motor).

    Take note of the position of the blades within its exterior housing and place it all back together to make the blade end up in nearly exactly that position with relation to the housing around it. Use extreme caution to not bend the blades as you work. They are very soft metal and are balanced not only by weight, but also by loading of air as it will turn when in use.

    If you do replace the motor, be sure to get a new capacitor of the correct size for the new motor. The old one probably will not be correct for it.

  • Defrosting cycle of the heat pump during heating mode will have the fan off for up to ten minutes or so and the compressor will run to produce the desired effect. This is normal. It will then turn the fan back on and the four way valve will divert the refrigerant flow back into the heating mode.
LESS LIKELY CAUSES:

  • Contactor points. Check for good contacts that are free from obstruction and damage.
  • Blade obstructions. Occasionally a limb, toy or electrical wires from the motor will bind the blades and cause the motor to stop and eventually overheat. Cool it off if it is hot and it should be okay.
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honeywell® visionpro™ iaq thermostat
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whole house control

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in2 Energy ICM®

Connects Thermostat to Computer and Internet.

electronic air cleaner
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UV Lites & Bulb Replacements
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