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Unlike the football field, though, the air in the home doesn't move away
and get diluted or replenished but very little and it never gets that
occasional washing from a good rain shower. It is a reasonably small volume
of air and it just gets moved around and around over and over with some minor
infiltration from the outside through door openings and leakage, window
seepage and other tiny openings in the construction. But, this is partly
good because if it were filtered well, it could continue to become cleaner
and cleaner on each pass through the system. It would, of course, be very
beneficial to have really clean air.
Because of the modern construction techniques and advancement in material
quality and performance, most of the homes now are reaching the point of
being almost
too tightly sealed
from the outside air infiltration. The air inside the home will seldom or
never be as clean as the air on the outside in nature. Sounds incredible,
but it is true.
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Inside the closed home many things get trapped and literally pollute the
space we occupy. The things that you can see drifting in the sun beams in
the sun light through the window and other things you can see with the eye
make up only ONE PERCENT of the pollutants inside the home. Actually, over
99% of the particles contaminating our indoor air can't be seen without a
microscope.
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I hesitate, but I must tell you what some are---these particles of
contamination. They are quite real and without knowing them you cannot
comprehend the necessity for combating them and how complex is the problem
and even more difficult, the solution:
- Plant spores and pollen
- Dust
- Viruses, bacteria, and fungi
- Dust mites, their carcasses, and droppings
- Human skin flakes
- Pet dander
- Tobacco and candle residue
- Wood smoke from fireplaces and wood-burning stoves
- Cooking smoke and airborne grease and oils
- Mildew and mold spores
- Radon gas, chemical fumes and volatile organic compounds generated by
household cleaners and chemicals
Fact Sheets from The Environmental Health Center are available online.
Try this! Remove the door from your blower compartment and examine very carefully what you see. Is there dust,
large deposits of lint-like build-up or is there that as well as maybe some splotches of something that you first think
is dust but may not be dust. Look very carefully at this. Is it alive? It may very well may be alive.
It may be a type of fungal contamination that just loves to grow in todays highly efficient cooling systems. I think that in my area it is significantly infecting as many as two in three homes. It sometimes looks a lot
like the mold on bread. It is sooty in appearance and in concentrated areas will grow in the direction of the air flow. This is what is known as an arosol microbial contamination. If you have a good growth of it, it will have built up in the cooling coil, on the blower wheel blades and even into the duct system and possibly even onto the outlet grills in the rooms. Some customers of mine even had such a case of it that it flaked out onto the furniture.
I have devoted a page to this fungal invader for more detailed information.
Each breath of air you breath carries in possibly millions of these particles.
In reasonable concentrations, they may make you uncomfortable. In larger
amounts or continual breathing of them, you may actually get sick periodically
and wonder at the cause.
There are four methods that reduce the number of problem pollutants in
your home.
SOURCE CONTROL--For example, if you won't permit smoking in your home
you have source control.
DILUTION--Natural infiltration or the forced introduction of outside air
into a home cause dilution.
FILTRATION--Using a filter or air cleaner to control the air quality.
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT--Using ultraviolet lite to treat the air contaminants.
OPTIMUM CONTROL of indoor air quality involves a combination of all
four methods. None of these methods can solve all of the potential
problems alone. (Honeywell Perfect Climate data)
Of course, there are better filters than the standard disposable fiberglass
one that I mentioned before as the
$ .59 variety.
That is the same quality
that is supplied from the factory initially, by the way. Naturally, they
are not going to supply some very expensive filter with the purchase. The
original filter was intended to simply protect the blower and motor and
cooling coil from a major collection of the really big particles until it
gets out of warranty. That is what that type of filter does---collect the
really big particles. Many of the systems in use never see anything
but this type filter. AND THEY ONLY FILTER OUT 3 TO 7 PERCENT OF THE FOREIGN
MATTER--LEAVING 93 TO 97 PERCENT TO POLLUTE YOUR SYSTEM AND YOUR BREATHING
AIR AGAIN.
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If this sounds unbelievable, try this experiment. Tape a piece of
cheesecloth over a ceiling (outlet vent) register. Place the fan in the
constant run position for 48 hours. See the collection of stuff on it build
up that slipped through your system and through your filter. Remember, this is
only one of your grills. This collection is just a tenth or less of all the
air that the system was circulating and a lot more smaller particles slipped
through the cheesecloth. Remember, you can SEE only one percent of what
is really going through it.
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If you have comments, suggestions or
you solved a problem with the aid of this free site, please email me at
jamesnix@longviewweb.com
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